Cocktails in Paris

In the vibrant world of cocktail bars, Candelaria in Paris and Nightjar in London stand out as two iconic establishments that have shaped their respective cities’ nightlife.
As Candelaria celebrates its innovative approach to blending authentic Mexican cuisine with a unique cocktail experience, Nightjar commemorates its 15th anniversary with a commitment to excellence and community through collaboration with Woodford Reserve.

Both bars have faced the challenges of an evolving hospitality landscape, marked by changes in consumer behavior and the impact of the recent global pandemic. As they worked together for a series of collaborative events, including takeovers and seminars, they reflect on their journeys, the lessons learned, and their visions for the future.

In this cross-interview, we delve into the experiences of Carina Soto, co-owner of Candelaria, and Edmund Weil, co-owner of Nightjar, exploring their shared values, the evolution of their bars, and the insights they have gained along the way.
Together, they offer a glimpse into the heart of the hospitality industry and what it takes to thrive in an ever-changing environment.

In celebrating Nightjar’s 15th anniversary, how does this collaboration with Woodford Reserve and other bars like Candelaria reflect the spirit of community within the bar industry?

• Edmund: We chose to work with Woodford Reserve on this project because they have been at our side as a partner and champion since we opened in 2010. They have supported us in so many ways over the years, from taking our staff on amazing trips to helping us support the careers of local grassroots musicians as part of our live programming. With regards to the bars we have chosen to partner with, they are all institutions both in their cities and globally. We’ve selected bars that have stood the test of time whilst maintaining the highest standards of drinks service and employee welfare.  

What does it mean for you, as founders of Candelaria, to participate in events like the takeover at Nightjar? What values do you share with Nightjar?

• Carina: We are very different style of bars, but we have both opened in the same time period that was crucial for cocktail bars in both cities. We brought something new and interesting, an experience with cocktails that is live music for Nightjar or food for Candelaria we broke the codes of the time in our cities.

Edmund, you mentioned overcoming several challenges over the past 15 years. Candelaria has also faced tough times. Could you share a significant experience and how it influenced your business approach?

• Edmund: Apart form the very obvious hurdle of COVID, one of the most significant challenges was a huge unexpected six figure tax bill related to our live music performances. To cut a long story short, very few of our performers are registered for sales tax, so we did not charge VAT on music cover. Although this was a legitimate approach, because our accountants had not made the technical and contractual arrangements to support it, we found ourselves on the hook for sales tax over four years of live performances. It was a painful lesson which has led us to ensure that our accountants are always properly engaged in what we are doing both from a record-keeping but also a compliance perspective.

How has the evolution of the hospitality industry in recent years affected your respective bars, and what strategies have you implemented to remain relevant and attractive?

• Edmund: As a whole, we feel that the wet-led space is a more challenging place to operate in the UK. Large parts of our audience have less disposable income, and there simply a general movement towards drinking less which has affected spend-per head. Luckily with our live music offering, and focus on experiential drinking, our bars focus on a guest experience that goes far beyond just sharing a couple of drinks. We have greatly expanded and improved our no-lo offerings in recent years, to cater for a wider pool of guests who prioritise experience over alcohol.
  
• Carina: We have gone through not only financial difficult periods but also since 2020 a completely 360 * change on how our consumers behave, our cities nightlife scene, technology, social media, etc. The challenges are big, but on our end in Paris the only formula that makes you survive is making sure the place feels special like the first day adapting to the codes that people enjoy today plus consistency in your product. We slightly renovated the space, our cocktails and style of service also upgraded, and our food is consistently good, just keeping the place relevant for 10 more years.

With events like “The Enduring Bar” and the planned seminars, how does each of your bars approach innovation in cocktails and customer experience? What lessons do you hope to share during these discussions?

• Edmund: The main thrust of our seminars will be about how a bar can progress from the ‘hottest spot in town’ to a well-loved favourite. Maintaining, evolving, and curating an audience through these phases involves many facets, including changing approaches creative development, marketing, interior design and maintenance, relationships with brands, as well as training and HR. 

How do you envision the future of your bars in the current industry context? What trends do you think are crucial to adopt to ensure the longevity of your establishments?

• Edmund: We’ve always tried to focus on our core values and competencies rather than chasing trends, and we feel that this has been central to our endurance over all these years. That said, we’ve striven un recent years to ensure that the bar its a friendly place for bartenders and industry to come sit at the bar and enjoy the craft of our bartenders. In its early years Nightjar had a reputation as a but of an ‘aloof’ place for industry. Likewise, in Shoreditch we have slightly evolved out offering to accommodate a chaining crowd in the area. For example, we will be launching DJ nights on Thursdays to attract a late-night crowd.
  
• Carina: Trends die, cultural changes/ mouvements endure. Moving towards a sustainable and humane industry is not a trend, it’s obligatory at this point. Making sure you can guaranty safe working spaces, provide adequate lifestyles for your teams as an example is something that will keep our industry alive and pushing forward.

Staff training and team culture are essential for the success of a bar. How does each bar incorporate these elements into its daily operations, and what advice could you share with each other?

• Edmund: Training can often feel like a luxury, especially with margins under pressure, and a more transient staffing picture post Brexit-COVID. We have always sought to keep it in the foreground of our operation as the effects on morale and guest experience are dramatic.
  
• Carina: Having strong lines of communication and clear managers and management procedures, reinforcing weekly meetings (basically knowing who does what and who to talk about a specific thing).

Looking back at the initial vision you had when opening your respective bars, how does it compare to what your establishments have become today? Was this transformation planned, or did it evolve organically over time?

• Edmund: Our initial concept was always based on transporting our guests – the Speakeasy Entrance, the Art Deco interiors, the live jazz every night. We are proud to say we feel that we still achieve that today. What’s evolved is the cocktail offering. The historical menu at Nightjar, and the geographical one at Oriole for example, are still in place. However, the level of creativity and multisensory experience that each of our bar managers has brought to their menu development has been a wonder to see. Adopting new techniques and incorporating them into our end structure has been an interesting challenge but we are proud to say that our current 15th anniversary menu, Recalling, is the best we have ever had, both in terms of drinks and design. 
  
• Carina: You can’t plan the future or how your guests will use or respond to the place. So yes hospitality never goes according to plans… It grows organically over time or dies like everything, I guess. 

As you both celebrate your achievements and look toward the future, what is one piece of advice or a key message you would like to share with the next generation of bar owners and hospitality professionals?

• Edmund: Hospitality is the ultimate ‘lifestyle’ profession. When it’s good, it is really really good. What could be better than making money from making people happy every day? However, the lows are very low for the exact same reason; if the concept into which you have poured your entire being is not functioning properly for whatever reason, it is hard not to take it personally. It’s vital to avoid this and to look dispassionately at both the successful elements of your business and those that require improvement. The other thing is to ensure that there a balanced approach to taking money out of the business. If the cash is pouring in, make sure to look after yourself as a business owner; it probably won’t be this way forever! On the other hand, always ensure you have the reserves to see you through a rough patch or take advantage of an exciting opportunity. 
  
• Carina: I admire entrepreneurs for taking risks and working hard. Now not everyone is an entrepreneur, and a lot of talented people find themselves in a difficult situation when they decide to open their venue. Always be well advised by professionals and make sure you have worked in the industry before opening. If you haven’t cleaned toilets, fix a water leak or kicked out someone from a bar, don’t open a bar.

Candelaria and Nightjar exemplify resilience and innovation in the ever-evolving bar industry, each carving out a unique niche while sharing common values.
Both establishments have successfully navigated the challenges of the hospitality landscape through adaptability, community engagement, and a steadfast commitment to quality in their offerings.
Their dedication to creating memorable experiences for guests underscores the importance of connection and engagement in fostering lasting relationships with their guests.

As speakeasies, both Candelaria and Nightjar emphasize an intimate and immersive atmosphere that transports guests to a different time and place.
Candelaria combines this speakeasy vibe by seamlessly blending expertly crafted cocktails focusing on agave but not only and with a vibrant food menu that pays homage to its cultural roots with the taco joint just outside the bar.
Nightjar, on the other hand, focuses on an eclectic mix of live music and innovative cocktail creations, creating a lively nightlife experience that captivates its patrons.

Together, they demonstrate that success in the hospitality industry is not merely about following trends, but rather about staying true to one’s core identity and values.
Leading with a blend of innovation and tradition, Candelaria and Nightjar not only celebrate their histories but also pave the way for a dynamic and sustainable future in the world of cocktails and conviviality.

Thank you both for your time and insights!

You can catch Nightjar at Candelaria during Whisky Live for a special guestshift!